What would a Leis family trip be without an ear infection for one daughter. It could have taken hours but Kathy and Julia's French turned it into a free 20-minute visit.
Luong Prabang is a world heritage site with French colonial architecture. It is right along Mekong River. Our guide is again great. Was a Buddhist monk for a while so we are learning a lot from all the Buddhist temples. As important, Beer Lao is one of the country's best exports.
This is a most relaxed place but largely off the grid for Americans. Tonight we celebrate New Years at a special dinner and show.
Happy New Year All!
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Saturday, December 31, 2011
Thursday, December 29, 2011
Elephants and Raiders of the Lost Ark
Today began with an elephant ride around a Cambodian temple -- who would have thunk. A little cramped and "tippy" but certainly not to be missed.
We then visited Ta Prohm, a temple still partially engulfed by the jungle. It was used in the final part of Raiders of the Lost Ark. Trees were intricately entwined with the temple wall -- most amazing. Lots of interesting photos for us and the Japanese tour groups who arrived by the busload.
Our final temple was outside of town. so we got to tour the countryside. The level of poverty for most farmers is high, and it appears that Viet Nam was a pretty tight rein on the country. Amazingly tourism is really the only other industry.
Also of interest, is that 60% of Cambodians are under 22, the result of all Kihmer Rouge massacres of the educated and wealthy. Nonetheless, they are a lovely and charming people, except when they are hawking wares in the markets by the parking lots of all the temples!!
Tonight we will likely venture, at Julia's insistence, into town to sample local food. We went last night to meet up with a good friend of hers and her visiting American family. Delecious Kihmer food, although I admit to ordering a pizza. But the local beer isn't bad -- Alan's index of a country. And who can beat a total bill of $25.
Tomorrow is a travel day. Plan to be back up on Saturday!!
Evening update: Julia did it again. She had read about a Khmer restaurant in the Bangkok Air magazine that was amazing. Who knew I would like local food. Lovely people--the only "wow"moment was getting there in a tuck tuck. We thought there were potholes in Chicago! Almost fell out twice. We were so far off the grid I was worried we were being abducted. Then, sudddenly this beautiful restaurant appeared. Even better, they gave us our own bug spray. Another memorable dinner and great conversation with Julia on her view of the world, all for $40.
The adventure continues.
We then visited Ta Prohm, a temple still partially engulfed by the jungle. It was used in the final part of Raiders of the Lost Ark. Trees were intricately entwined with the temple wall -- most amazing. Lots of interesting photos for us and the Japanese tour groups who arrived by the busload.
Our final temple was outside of town. so we got to tour the countryside. The level of poverty for most farmers is high, and it appears that Viet Nam was a pretty tight rein on the country. Amazingly tourism is really the only other industry.
Also of interest, is that 60% of Cambodians are under 22, the result of all Kihmer Rouge massacres of the educated and wealthy. Nonetheless, they are a lovely and charming people, except when they are hawking wares in the markets by the parking lots of all the temples!!
Tonight we will likely venture, at Julia's insistence, into town to sample local food. We went last night to meet up with a good friend of hers and her visiting American family. Delecious Kihmer food, although I admit to ordering a pizza. But the local beer isn't bad -- Alan's index of a country. And who can beat a total bill of $25.
Tomorrow is a travel day. Plan to be back up on Saturday!!
Evening update: Julia did it again. She had read about a Khmer restaurant in the Bangkok Air magazine that was amazing. Who knew I would like local food. Lovely people--the only "wow"moment was getting there in a tuck tuck. We thought there were potholes in Chicago! Almost fell out twice. We were so far off the grid I was worried we were being abducted. Then, sudddenly this beautiful restaurant appeared. Even better, they gave us our own bug spray. Another memorable dinner and great conversation with Julia on her view of the world, all for $40.
The adventure continues.
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Hello from Cambodia
Another phrase I never ever thought I would say.
We had a great final day in Thailand that included another German beer garden, high tea at the Cehdi, shopping, and lunch at an organic restaurant next to a wat with stunning architecture.
We spent most of yesterday flying to Siem Reap--all the planes were late.
Today was an exhausting day, sunny, almost 90 degrees, with lots of humidity. We were up before dawn to see sunrise over Angor Wat, then climbed up and down to see multiple temples. It was amazing to realize that they all date from the 11th and 12th century AD; there is so much world history we never learned. Ultimately the kingdoms were overrun and the jungle engulfed the temples until they were discovered by a Frenchman collecting butterflies around 1860. The whole area was so dangerous they had to burn the undergrowth to get rid of the scorpions, snakes, etc; that is why parts of the temples today are black.
These days they work at eliminating another threat -- land mines that are continuing to be discovered throughout the countryside.
Today we also visited a shop that teaches deaf children traditional arts and crafts and then sends them back to their village with a skill that will allow them to support themselves for the rest of their lives. Spent way too much on the local products, but the young people do incredible work.
Finally, we just returned from our last event, a ballon ride to see Angor Wat in late afternoon. Very well-planned tours; we are lucky to have found such a good tour company with the help of a great Naperville travel agent. Also, a really lovely hotel to ""come home to."
Tomorrow more temples and the next day we leave for Laos.
We had a great final day in Thailand that included another German beer garden, high tea at the Cehdi, shopping, and lunch at an organic restaurant next to a wat with stunning architecture.
We spent most of yesterday flying to Siem Reap--all the planes were late.
Today was an exhausting day, sunny, almost 90 degrees, with lots of humidity. We were up before dawn to see sunrise over Angor Wat, then climbed up and down to see multiple temples. It was amazing to realize that they all date from the 11th and 12th century AD; there is so much world history we never learned. Ultimately the kingdoms were overrun and the jungle engulfed the temples until they were discovered by a Frenchman collecting butterflies around 1860. The whole area was so dangerous they had to burn the undergrowth to get rid of the scorpions, snakes, etc; that is why parts of the temples today are black.
These days they work at eliminating another threat -- land mines that are continuing to be discovered throughout the countryside.
Today we also visited a shop that teaches deaf children traditional arts and crafts and then sends them back to their village with a skill that will allow them to support themselves for the rest of their lives. Spent way too much on the local products, but the young people do incredible work.
Finally, we just returned from our last event, a ballon ride to see Angor Wat in late afternoon. Very well-planned tours; we are lucky to have found such a good tour company with the help of a great Naperville travel agent. Also, a really lovely hotel to ""come home to."
Tomorrow more temples and the next day we leave for Laos.
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Christmas at the Temple
After brunch on the patio with Julia's friends we headed to the temple for Christmas, the Buddhist temple, that is, on the mountain -- a very busy place. After a nap, we headed to the Sunday night market, jammed with people and products at amazing prices. A few good finds among the "junk." At six PM we all stopped to stand at attention for the Thai national anthem!! Then the shopping continued; first things first.
Next was dinner at a very nice restaurant with Xmas songs playing softly in the bacground--another surreal experience. But I still was able to have my traditional turkey and stuffing.
Today it is laundry and helping Julia send a box home, but there must be time for one more Thai massage.
Tomorrow we leave for Cambodia. Will post the next blog when I can.
Thailand, we conclude, is a very warm friendly place, very different of course, but easy to like. We can see why Julia loves it here.
Thought for the day comes from a sign at the Bangkok airport: "Of all the people who have ever lived to age 65, two-thirds are alive today."
Onward!
Next was dinner at a very nice restaurant with Xmas songs playing softly in the bacground--another surreal experience. But I still was able to have my traditional turkey and stuffing.
Today it is laundry and helping Julia send a box home, but there must be time for one more Thai massage.
Tomorrow we leave for Cambodia. Will post the next blog when I can.
Thailand, we conclude, is a very warm friendly place, very different of course, but easy to like. We can see why Julia loves it here.
Thought for the day comes from a sign at the Bangkok airport: "Of all the people who have ever lived to age 65, two-thirds are alive today."
Onward!
Saturday, December 24, 2011
Getting Ready for Christmas, Sort Of
Adjectives that describe the last two days in Chaing Mai:
Scary -- riding in a tuk-tuk (think taxi that marries a golf cart with a motorcycle) through evening traffic to meet Julia's friends at a German beer garden (so realistic-- the cowboy art was an especially nice touch)
Terrifying -- to hear about the dog that died on Julia's farm after an encounter with a cobra (things parents didn't need to know for $500, Alex)
Blissful -- the two Thai massages we all had so far (a foot massage and the regular Thai massage, the latter which combines relaxation and physical therapy with the masseuse crawling all over your back), all for ridiculous prices: the one-hour foot massage was $5)
Memorably beautiful -- the visit to the annual Royal Flora and Fauna Show outside of town, think amusement park with acres and acres of flowers; fun to ride the Ferris Wheel.
Christmas spirity -- keeping up the Leis family tradition of feeding Julia's "strays" for the holidays -- we will be taking 8 to Christmas Day brunch tomrrow.
Thai-like -- the Christmas "show" in the park tonight, as in what Christmas park would be complete without skinny Thai girls in skimpy Santa outfits and a Christmas beauty pageant.
Have a wonerful Christmas everyone!
Scary -- riding in a tuk-tuk (think taxi that marries a golf cart with a motorcycle) through evening traffic to meet Julia's friends at a German beer garden (so realistic-- the cowboy art was an especially nice touch)
Terrifying -- to hear about the dog that died on Julia's farm after an encounter with a cobra (things parents didn't need to know for $500, Alex)
Blissful -- the two Thai massages we all had so far (a foot massage and the regular Thai massage, the latter which combines relaxation and physical therapy with the masseuse crawling all over your back), all for ridiculous prices: the one-hour foot massage was $5)
Memorably beautiful -- the visit to the annual Royal Flora and Fauna Show outside of town, think amusement park with acres and acres of flowers; fun to ride the Ferris Wheel.
Christmas spirity -- keeping up the Leis family tradition of feeding Julia's "strays" for the holidays -- we will be taking 8 to Christmas Day brunch tomrrow.
Thai-like -- the Christmas "show" in the park tonight, as in what Christmas park would be complete without skinny Thai girls in skimpy Santa outfits and a Christmas beauty pageant.
Have a wonerful Christmas everyone!
Thursday, December 22, 2011
Warm, Sunny Thailand
Quite a change from Chicago. Hope I packed enough shorts -- how tacky, sorry.
Our flight was amazingly easy. So far Kathy and I have adjusted reasonably well to the thirteen hour time change. And, suprisingly, there was was room for my legs on ANA. Lots of movies, reading, and sleeping. Not nearly as bad as I feared.
Our trip got off to an amazing start. It was so wonderful to see Julia at the Chiang Mai airport! She seems determined to push her parents travel legs, but we are happy about that.
We went immediately to the big graduation. Last night the 21 Burmese students who have been in training for six months "graduated." It was all very emotional for Julia, the staff, the students. Gorgeous program, by Julia, of course.
The student studies focused on sustainable argriculture. The farm they all live in has one modern building, and several mud brick ones where some people sleep. The Head's wife fixed us all a traditional Burmese dinner in an open air kitchen. The main farm is surrounded by rice paddies and other irrigated fields. All the neighbors were invited as they have been good to the students. Funding is tough but there are some international agencies that support the cause, like American Jewish World Service.
The students learned agriculture, English, leadership, community organizing, economics, and social justice. This kind of training can't yet happen in Burma, although the country seems to be opening up some. Each had to complete a project about what he or she would do upon their return. The students sang and danced--beautiful men and women. Because most grew up in ethnic areas (there are over 135 ethnic groups in Burma) many didn't even speak good Burmese, so teaching was most difficult.
All will go back to their communities with a project and some modest funding. Julia plans to visit a couple but many are returning to areas to which foreigners are not allowed. Some will need a week of travel just to get "home."
The "best project" was a young man who will start a small farm to sell fruits and vegetables, with the proceeds used to tutor local students in the tough exam they must pass to get to Burmese university. Education in Burma is still a huge problem. Farmers are massively in debt, but they have very good natural resources -- something the Chinese desparately want.
It was very heartwarming to see our daughter so committed and involved in helping these economically poor students half a globe away who are so rich in spirit. Lots of happy and sad tears for us all.
For the next few days we are sort of resting here, seeing Chiang Mai, a very beautiful city in the north near the mountains where many retire (including Americans). The cost of living is very low; our nice hotel room for three is a little over $30 a night.
Much too long a post this time, but lots to share. Talk to you soon.
Alan
Our flight was amazingly easy. So far Kathy and I have adjusted reasonably well to the thirteen hour time change. And, suprisingly, there was was room for my legs on ANA. Lots of movies, reading, and sleeping. Not nearly as bad as I feared.
Our trip got off to an amazing start. It was so wonderful to see Julia at the Chiang Mai airport! She seems determined to push her parents travel legs, but we are happy about that.
We went immediately to the big graduation. Last night the 21 Burmese students who have been in training for six months "graduated." It was all very emotional for Julia, the staff, the students. Gorgeous program, by Julia, of course.
The student studies focused on sustainable argriculture. The farm they all live in has one modern building, and several mud brick ones where some people sleep. The Head's wife fixed us all a traditional Burmese dinner in an open air kitchen. The main farm is surrounded by rice paddies and other irrigated fields. All the neighbors were invited as they have been good to the students. Funding is tough but there are some international agencies that support the cause, like American Jewish World Service.
The students learned agriculture, English, leadership, community organizing, economics, and social justice. This kind of training can't yet happen in Burma, although the country seems to be opening up some. Each had to complete a project about what he or she would do upon their return. The students sang and danced--beautiful men and women. Because most grew up in ethnic areas (there are over 135 ethnic groups in Burma) many didn't even speak good Burmese, so teaching was most difficult.
All will go back to their communities with a project and some modest funding. Julia plans to visit a couple but many are returning to areas to which foreigners are not allowed. Some will need a week of travel just to get "home."
The "best project" was a young man who will start a small farm to sell fruits and vegetables, with the proceeds used to tutor local students in the tough exam they must pass to get to Burmese university. Education in Burma is still a huge problem. Farmers are massively in debt, but they have very good natural resources -- something the Chinese desparately want.
It was very heartwarming to see our daughter so committed and involved in helping these economically poor students half a globe away who are so rich in spirit. Lots of happy and sad tears for us all.
For the next few days we are sort of resting here, seeing Chiang Mai, a very beautiful city in the north near the mountains where many retire (including Americans). The cost of living is very low; our nice hotel room for three is a little over $30 a night.
Much too long a post this time, but lots to share. Talk to you soon.
Alan
Saturday, December 17, 2011
Getting Ready to Leave
Kathy and I are both excited about our upcoming trip to Thailand to visit Julia beginning Tuesday morning, although we admit to being a bit intimidated by the 23 hour trip to Bangkok (which includes a two-hour layover in Tokyo). What an adventure!
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