Our time in Hue ended with a trip to the last emperor's tomb with more Buddhas. We are close to being "overly templed."
Saying goodbye to "Mom" as we referred to our guide, we flew to Saigon. After being too hot (in Cambodia), then too cold (in Hanoi), Saigon was "just right," sunny and 75 with a breeze. We met Duc and immediately went on tour. Our first stop was the Museum of War Remains, formerly called he museum of American war crimes and oppression. Pretty much sums up the viewpoint, but it was difficult to recall the Mylai Massacre and the effects of Agent Orange.
That was followed by a walking tour to Saigon's Notre Dame cathedral (a "mini" version of the one in Paris), and the Post Office designed by Eiffel, before his "other" work. We also saw the Presidential Palace and the building from which the last American helicopter left. Finally, we saw the new shopping center, the Intercontinental Hotel (from 1880) and the required Yves St. Laurent and Nike shops on the main boulevard. Very modern city that could be almost anywhere, although with rows and rows of motorcycles, sometimes ten deep.
Today was very special. Our van took us to the orchards of he Mekong Delta. We boarded a big boat and toured a canal. Then we transferred to bikes and pedaled through the trees and plants with our guide pointing out the various tropical fruits. Next we went down a narrow canal in a very small boat (think kayak for four) to an orchard where a farmer provided samples (pre-arranged). Then back to the bikes to a lunch stop in a Vietnamese home, a most sumptuous spread. Julia discussed pigs and fruit with the family. A short bike trip brought us back to the van for a trip home with one final temple, the "Happy Budda," my favorite of the entire vacation.
The orchards were cool and memorable as we biked and rowed along. What a great feature from this tour company! Never thought we would do anything like this.
Tomorrow it is the Viet Cong tunnels at the end of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, near Saigon, then a day or resting and shopping before Julia returns to Thailand (sad). We depart Tuesday evening at midnight and arrive in Chicago 7:30 Wed. morning.
Incredible trip, but it will still be nice to be home.
Sunday, January 8, 2012
Friday, January 6, 2012
A Hue Day Aventure
Those of you who know me well know that I am not a very adventuresome eater. I have made an exception for this trip. In the last two days I have eaten squid, river mussels, strange concoctions of rice with fish sauce, vegetables, and pork, and even shrimp in a white gelatin made from sticky rice. All were pretty good actually, but not as good as Festival beer, the beer of southern Vietnam.
This is all a lead in to our day. The morning was spent with a cooking expert who has studied in France. As Julia said, "she is a Vietnamese Kathy Leis," except for the cooking skills and the singing (she liked us so much she sang to us in the car). Needless to say, she and Kathy hit it off and she held Kathy's arm everywhere we went. Stops were all to sample local cuisine and to visit the local market. That is what has made traveling with this tour company so special -- the deliberate interactions with local guides and others who are genuinely warm and welcoming. Our tour guide even made us a copy of her poetry--quite impressive and thoughtful. Traveling as our own group has made that even more special.
This afternoon included a visit to the imperial palace, or what is left of it after we bombed it. Those here say, proudly, that they will have it restored in 50 years or so. And our guide (who has two adult children) described hiding out for 25 days with only rice to eat to survive a Viet Cong attack. More stories to tell when we return.
After the palace, our guide put is in a "cyclo," a rickshaw pushed by a bike, for one person only. We careened through the streets with almost no stoplights. Also, when crossing the street, we learned to "shuffle" so that the cars, motorcycles, and bikes simply drive around you. It's scary but it works.
The cyclo took us to the ancient pagoda where we caught the 4 PM workshop service with the Buddhist monks singing and chanting. After that we boarded a small dragon boat for a trip down the river back to our hotel. The family that owns the boat lives on it with their four children. Hard to imagine.
Kathy and Julia are off to massages and I am about to go searching for another Festival beer. The quote of the day aptly describes our travels and comes from a tag I saw on a woman's purse at the pagoda: "Adventure Before Dementia"
Amen.
This is all a lead in to our day. The morning was spent with a cooking expert who has studied in France. As Julia said, "she is a Vietnamese Kathy Leis," except for the cooking skills and the singing (she liked us so much she sang to us in the car). Needless to say, she and Kathy hit it off and she held Kathy's arm everywhere we went. Stops were all to sample local cuisine and to visit the local market. That is what has made traveling with this tour company so special -- the deliberate interactions with local guides and others who are genuinely warm and welcoming. Our tour guide even made us a copy of her poetry--quite impressive and thoughtful. Traveling as our own group has made that even more special.
This afternoon included a visit to the imperial palace, or what is left of it after we bombed it. Those here say, proudly, that they will have it restored in 50 years or so. And our guide (who has two adult children) described hiding out for 25 days with only rice to eat to survive a Viet Cong attack. More stories to tell when we return.
After the palace, our guide put is in a "cyclo," a rickshaw pushed by a bike, for one person only. We careened through the streets with almost no stoplights. Also, when crossing the street, we learned to "shuffle" so that the cars, motorcycles, and bikes simply drive around you. It's scary but it works.
The cyclo took us to the ancient pagoda where we caught the 4 PM workshop service with the Buddhist monks singing and chanting. After that we boarded a small dragon boat for a trip down the river back to our hotel. The family that owns the boat lives on it with their four children. Hard to imagine.
Kathy and Julia are off to massages and I am about to go searching for another Festival beer. The quote of the day aptly describes our travels and comes from a tag I saw on a woman's purse at the pagoda: "Adventure Before Dementia"
Amen.
Thursday, January 5, 2012
Up Up and A Hue
We have been very busy and somewhat out of touch since the last post.
Spent a very busy day touring Hanoi: the Ho Chi Minh Tomb (he is there, in a glass case, embalmed--quite eery); his house and bomb shelter where, after visiting, you hit the shops and restaurants with a huge "Have a Pepsi" sign (wonder what he would think about that?); an hour at the Temple of Literature (what was the point?), a lecture on Vietnam history just for us (vaguely interesting, but it was like being back in college), a visit to the prison used by the French and then used for American POW's, (John McCain's uniform and parachute and a video on how humanely they treated Americans, right), and ending with a water puppet show (definitely a first--yes the puppets are controlled by people behind a curtain as they retell Vietnamese legends in and under water). The most interesting comment came during the lecture when the lecturer told us that in his new year address the head of the government said that the role of government is to "regulate, not control." This is seen as a huge acceptance of a more open marketplace. In fact, Vietnam is referred to as the communist country with a capitalistic economy (we passed the largest Samsung manufacturing plant in the world). At the same time, in the morning we would hear morning announcements on the loudspeakers around our hotel, reminding people of things the government wants them to know. Still, an interesting, congested, bustling city.
The next day and night was spent at Halong Bay. We slept on a boat (fun, again) and toured the caves and rock formations that make up this UNESCO-protected site, deemed one of the world's seven natural wonders. It was beautiful but incredibly cold; the temperature got so low they closed school the next morning in Hanoi -- no heaters in the classrooms.
Going right to the airport, we just landed in Hue, for more touring in central Vietnam, the feudal capital. Met by a lovely guide. Tomorrow, the Perfume River.
Spent a very busy day touring Hanoi: the Ho Chi Minh Tomb (he is there, in a glass case, embalmed--quite eery); his house and bomb shelter where, after visiting, you hit the shops and restaurants with a huge "Have a Pepsi" sign (wonder what he would think about that?); an hour at the Temple of Literature (what was the point?), a lecture on Vietnam history just for us (vaguely interesting, but it was like being back in college), a visit to the prison used by the French and then used for American POW's, (John McCain's uniform and parachute and a video on how humanely they treated Americans, right), and ending with a water puppet show (definitely a first--yes the puppets are controlled by people behind a curtain as they retell Vietnamese legends in and under water). The most interesting comment came during the lecture when the lecturer told us that in his new year address the head of the government said that the role of government is to "regulate, not control." This is seen as a huge acceptance of a more open marketplace. In fact, Vietnam is referred to as the communist country with a capitalistic economy (we passed the largest Samsung manufacturing plant in the world). At the same time, in the morning we would hear morning announcements on the loudspeakers around our hotel, reminding people of things the government wants them to know. Still, an interesting, congested, bustling city.
The next day and night was spent at Halong Bay. We slept on a boat (fun, again) and toured the caves and rock formations that make up this UNESCO-protected site, deemed one of the world's seven natural wonders. It was beautiful but incredibly cold; the temperature got so low they closed school the next morning in Hanoi -- no heaters in the classrooms.
Going right to the airport, we just landed in Hue, for more touring in central Vietnam, the feudal capital. Met by a lovely guide. Tomorrow, the Perfume River.
Monday, January 2, 2012
Goodbye Laos, Hello Hanoi
We managed to fall in love with Laos. Warm people, great food, caves, trip on the Mekong River, getting up at 5 to give alms to the Buddhist monks, visiting a gorgeous waterall (Kathy and Julia went swimming), watching local women in poor villages make their cotton and silk scarves; and finding a Mong New Year's celebration in a teak forest -- it happens to be Mong New Year. New Year's Eve was at a resort near town, sending lanterns into the sky and watching the Lao line dance!
Late this afternoon we flew to Hanoi where it is cold and rainy, a meteoroligcal exception for this time of year. Quick snapshots of Hanoi: traffic everywhere (you can't avoid them, they are supposed to avoid you): signs for Pansonic, Toshiba, Honda, and Amway (!) like most big cities; trading $100 (US) for $2 million dong, listening to Julia at dinner discuss Thai mushrooms with a "mushroom specialist" from Germany; no Facebook (the government blocks!), and learning that the young people have a workaround! Kathy will need that.
What will we learn tomorrow? Stay tuned.
Late this afternoon we flew to Hanoi where it is cold and rainy, a meteoroligcal exception for this time of year. Quick snapshots of Hanoi: traffic everywhere (you can't avoid them, they are supposed to avoid you): signs for Pansonic, Toshiba, Honda, and Amway (!) like most big cities; trading $100 (US) for $2 million dong, listening to Julia at dinner discuss Thai mushrooms with a "mushroom specialist" from Germany; no Facebook (the government blocks!), and learning that the young people have a workaround! Kathy will need that.
What will we learn tomorrow? Stay tuned.
Saturday, December 31, 2011
Laos Is Mountainous and Beautiful
What would a Leis family trip be without an ear infection for one daughter. It could have taken hours but Kathy and Julia's French turned it into a free 20-minute visit.
Luong Prabang is a world heritage site with French colonial architecture. It is right along Mekong River. Our guide is again great. Was a Buddhist monk for a while so we are learning a lot from all the Buddhist temples. As important, Beer Lao is one of the country's best exports.
This is a most relaxed place but largely off the grid for Americans. Tonight we celebrate New Years at a special dinner and show.
Happy New Year All!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Luong Prabang is a world heritage site with French colonial architecture. It is right along Mekong River. Our guide is again great. Was a Buddhist monk for a while so we are learning a lot from all the Buddhist temples. As important, Beer Lao is one of the country's best exports.
This is a most relaxed place but largely off the grid for Americans. Tonight we celebrate New Years at a special dinner and show.
Happy New Year All!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Thursday, December 29, 2011
Elephants and Raiders of the Lost Ark
Today began with an elephant ride around a Cambodian temple -- who would have thunk. A little cramped and "tippy" but certainly not to be missed.
We then visited Ta Prohm, a temple still partially engulfed by the jungle. It was used in the final part of Raiders of the Lost Ark. Trees were intricately entwined with the temple wall -- most amazing. Lots of interesting photos for us and the Japanese tour groups who arrived by the busload.
Our final temple was outside of town. so we got to tour the countryside. The level of poverty for most farmers is high, and it appears that Viet Nam was a pretty tight rein on the country. Amazingly tourism is really the only other industry.
Also of interest, is that 60% of Cambodians are under 22, the result of all Kihmer Rouge massacres of the educated and wealthy. Nonetheless, they are a lovely and charming people, except when they are hawking wares in the markets by the parking lots of all the temples!!
Tonight we will likely venture, at Julia's insistence, into town to sample local food. We went last night to meet up with a good friend of hers and her visiting American family. Delecious Kihmer food, although I admit to ordering a pizza. But the local beer isn't bad -- Alan's index of a country. And who can beat a total bill of $25.
Tomorrow is a travel day. Plan to be back up on Saturday!!
Evening update: Julia did it again. She had read about a Khmer restaurant in the Bangkok Air magazine that was amazing. Who knew I would like local food. Lovely people--the only "wow"moment was getting there in a tuck tuck. We thought there were potholes in Chicago! Almost fell out twice. We were so far off the grid I was worried we were being abducted. Then, sudddenly this beautiful restaurant appeared. Even better, they gave us our own bug spray. Another memorable dinner and great conversation with Julia on her view of the world, all for $40.
The adventure continues.
We then visited Ta Prohm, a temple still partially engulfed by the jungle. It was used in the final part of Raiders of the Lost Ark. Trees were intricately entwined with the temple wall -- most amazing. Lots of interesting photos for us and the Japanese tour groups who arrived by the busload.
Our final temple was outside of town. so we got to tour the countryside. The level of poverty for most farmers is high, and it appears that Viet Nam was a pretty tight rein on the country. Amazingly tourism is really the only other industry.
Also of interest, is that 60% of Cambodians are under 22, the result of all Kihmer Rouge massacres of the educated and wealthy. Nonetheless, they are a lovely and charming people, except when they are hawking wares in the markets by the parking lots of all the temples!!
Tonight we will likely venture, at Julia's insistence, into town to sample local food. We went last night to meet up with a good friend of hers and her visiting American family. Delecious Kihmer food, although I admit to ordering a pizza. But the local beer isn't bad -- Alan's index of a country. And who can beat a total bill of $25.
Tomorrow is a travel day. Plan to be back up on Saturday!!
Evening update: Julia did it again. She had read about a Khmer restaurant in the Bangkok Air magazine that was amazing. Who knew I would like local food. Lovely people--the only "wow"moment was getting there in a tuck tuck. We thought there were potholes in Chicago! Almost fell out twice. We were so far off the grid I was worried we were being abducted. Then, sudddenly this beautiful restaurant appeared. Even better, they gave us our own bug spray. Another memorable dinner and great conversation with Julia on her view of the world, all for $40.
The adventure continues.
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Hello from Cambodia
Another phrase I never ever thought I would say.
We had a great final day in Thailand that included another German beer garden, high tea at the Cehdi, shopping, and lunch at an organic restaurant next to a wat with stunning architecture.
We spent most of yesterday flying to Siem Reap--all the planes were late.
Today was an exhausting day, sunny, almost 90 degrees, with lots of humidity. We were up before dawn to see sunrise over Angor Wat, then climbed up and down to see multiple temples. It was amazing to realize that they all date from the 11th and 12th century AD; there is so much world history we never learned. Ultimately the kingdoms were overrun and the jungle engulfed the temples until they were discovered by a Frenchman collecting butterflies around 1860. The whole area was so dangerous they had to burn the undergrowth to get rid of the scorpions, snakes, etc; that is why parts of the temples today are black.
These days they work at eliminating another threat -- land mines that are continuing to be discovered throughout the countryside.
Today we also visited a shop that teaches deaf children traditional arts and crafts and then sends them back to their village with a skill that will allow them to support themselves for the rest of their lives. Spent way too much on the local products, but the young people do incredible work.
Finally, we just returned from our last event, a ballon ride to see Angor Wat in late afternoon. Very well-planned tours; we are lucky to have found such a good tour company with the help of a great Naperville travel agent. Also, a really lovely hotel to ""come home to."
Tomorrow more temples and the next day we leave for Laos.
We had a great final day in Thailand that included another German beer garden, high tea at the Cehdi, shopping, and lunch at an organic restaurant next to a wat with stunning architecture.
We spent most of yesterday flying to Siem Reap--all the planes were late.
Today was an exhausting day, sunny, almost 90 degrees, with lots of humidity. We were up before dawn to see sunrise over Angor Wat, then climbed up and down to see multiple temples. It was amazing to realize that they all date from the 11th and 12th century AD; there is so much world history we never learned. Ultimately the kingdoms were overrun and the jungle engulfed the temples until they were discovered by a Frenchman collecting butterflies around 1860. The whole area was so dangerous they had to burn the undergrowth to get rid of the scorpions, snakes, etc; that is why parts of the temples today are black.
These days they work at eliminating another threat -- land mines that are continuing to be discovered throughout the countryside.
Today we also visited a shop that teaches deaf children traditional arts and crafts and then sends them back to their village with a skill that will allow them to support themselves for the rest of their lives. Spent way too much on the local products, but the young people do incredible work.
Finally, we just returned from our last event, a ballon ride to see Angor Wat in late afternoon. Very well-planned tours; we are lucky to have found such a good tour company with the help of a great Naperville travel agent. Also, a really lovely hotel to ""come home to."
Tomorrow more temples and the next day we leave for Laos.
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